Day 1: Start of the journey
A few months ago, my good friend and pioneer hiker Alex Tibwitta reached out with an exciting proposal — a full Aberdare Ranges Traverse. With years of experience as a passionate mountaineer and longtime member of the Mountain Club of Kenya, Alex envisioned not just a hike, but a gathering of Kenya’s top mountain guides for an unforgettable Kenya trekking expedition.
Soon after, we began spreading the word. A simple poster and some enthusiastic communication drew in a solid team of adventurers. To our delight, the newly built Juniper Park Resort, located right by the Aberdare National Park, offered to host us the night before our journey. Camaraderie set in as we convoyed from Nairobi to the Aberdares, where a sumptuous dinner awaited us. We were anxious as the past two weeks were rainy and cold. We spent the evening dividing up food rations and learning a new game from Soitabao, one of our teammates, before settling around a bonfire for stories and laughs — the perfect calm before the storm.
Day 2: The traverse begins
Do I really need this ?
Friday began with a cheerful sunrise as we packed up and grabbed breakfast. Despite our plan to leave early, we only managed to set off at 10 a.m. The mood was a mix of excitement and nervous tension as we packed our resupply bags to be delivered three days later. The usual internal debates began: “Do I really need this?” I reluctantly left my hot water bottle in the resupply bag after the boys threatened to ruin my street cred — thanks, darling.
We hit the newly tarmacked road toward Rhino Gate, courtesy of our partners at Kenya Wildlife Service. From there, the twisty gravel road to Twin Rocks climbed nearly 1,000 meters in just 10 kilometers. A scenic forest drive in the Aberdares took us through groves of red cedar, podo, and bamboo. Along the way, I caught a glimpse of Chebuswa, the northernmost peak of the Aberdares — tempting, but we were already running late.
After another brief delay to reorganize the resupply drop at Mutubio Gate, Ng’ang’a offered a heartfelt prayer to Mwene Nyaga — the God of the Mountain — and finally, we were off.
The first two kilometers were steep, and the weight of our packs immediately hit us. Straps shifted, packs felt uneven, and doubts crept in — had we packed too much? But as we climbed, the expansive Kinangop Plateau and glistening Lake Ol Bolossat came into view, reminding us why we were here. Cresting the saddle, we entered the iconic Aberdare moorlands — what a friend once called the “Theatre of Dreams.” The landscape was dominated by The Nipple, a sharp peak I adore, and the dramatic Dragon’s Teeth.
We took a break while the faster team pressed on ahead. These days, no one feels pressured to compete — we hike at our pace and enjoy the journey. We swallowed our boiled eggs whole (we forgot the salt — and yes, it was 2 km ahead). Dennis pointed out a side trail leading to a WWII plane wreck — bucket list addition!
Then, the challenge ramped up. The team began to split as we tackled the ascent toward Mount Satima, the highest peak in the Aberdares. Weather turned quickly — it started hailing! While others dug out their waterproofs, I popped open my umbrella. Say what you will, but in Aberdare hailstorms, nothing beats a solid roof over your head.
We stashed our packs and made the final push to Satima’s summit — not the marker stone most settle for, but the true summit a good 15 minutes further.
After a short uncomfortable break in the rain, we trekked on the top of the ridge with stunning views of the Northern Aberdare moorlands. The southbound route passed by the recently famous pointed peak by the name of “Rhino” or “Kenyan Matterhorn” to some, to our destination for the day, the 7 Ponds Camp.
Spirits dipped and fatigue set in as we pushed on through eerie cloud shifts and moody drizzle. Ideally, you reach camp by 4 p.m. — time to settle, reflect, and prep for the cold night ahead. But that day, we found ourselves still walking with only two hours of daylight left, a sobering reminder that the Aberdare Ranges are unforgiving. By then, we had sore shoulders, tired legs, and “laughing shoes.” Yet no one gave up. Even those seeing “visions” of strange things pressed on — rock-hopping and dragging themselves to camp.
We arrived just in time to pitch tents before nightfall. Soup and chapatis from the lodge were divine — perhaps the best this group has ever tasted. Would I do it again? Absolutely. In fact, tomorrow is Day 2.
Distance:
18 km
Time:
8 hours
Difficulty:
Brutally beautiful
